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Calendar eau Meetingstrippeddevi ysearch Plugins usearch searchn Meetingstrippeddevi tsearche7fa E107 tsearchthsearcht Meetingstrippeddevi s Calendar mewhere on these icy flanks lies a tangible vestige of the most bizarre spy adventure of the Cold War, a vestige that has brought me halfway around the world and could threaten the lives of millions.
Fighting claustrophobia, Chuck unzips the tent door, a noisy process of fumbling for the zipper, and straining for leverage against the reluctant tent fabric. He debates taking a sleeping pill, then decides against it. I just want him to settle down so I can sleep, not knowing that his midnight fumbling will soon save my life. Jonny snores lightly as Sarah settles back into the prone position. Iâm anticipating a long day tomorrow and rest is important. The open tent door bathes me in cold unsettling wisps. I close my eyes, hoping for an unconscious reprieve.
The avalanche begins with a jarring crack that shakes the mountain and immediately builds to a deep bass rumble. My mind starts its painfully lazy swim up from the dark blue depths of semi-consciousness. Iâm aware on some level that the rumbleânow a roarâis coming to kill us. My eyes pop open. The cave is pitch black, but I can feel the air pressure changeâI donât know it yet, but hundreds of tons of snow are rushing toward the entrance. The race is on. I sluggishly shrug off my sleeping bag. Even as my body begins the race for survival, my brain, shaken from a hypoxic torpor, begins to sift the possibilities.
My movements seem slowâlanguid, like those of a passenger stuck in a low-speed car crashâeach moment stretched into a small version of eternity. My brain fumbles through questions in what seems like a criminally slow process. Did our cave collapse? Are we to be crushed, screaming under tons of ice? Is the whole mountain sliding down? Are we to end up in a broken tangle 3,000 feet below? In real time, itâs no more than a few seconds from the first blast when a deafening hiss engulfs our shelter. Our teamâsplit into two pairs ensconced in two separate tentsâis perched on the icy floor of the narrow, downward arching crevasse. Picture two tiny nylon bubbles nested in a jagged stab wound piercing the flanks of our mountain. Then picture a colossal dump truck emptying a mammoth load of quickset cement into the hole. As the snow makes its crushing onslaught, Iâm halfway out of my sleeping bag, torso through the tent door. Iâm almost out as the first swell washes over me. Instantly, Iâm pawing through a crushing tide, the consistency of fine sand. Itâs like swimming through glue.
The weight is incredibleâa remorseless, crushing tide. Behind my shoulder, over the deadly roar I can hear Chuck yell. The only clear word is a drawn out âFuuuck!â The rest is a nonverbal grind of consonants drowned even as they become audible. Heâs behind me by no more than one secondâan interval that, in this race, might prove fatal.
As it is, Chuck isnât fast enough. Itâs impossible to see whatâs happening in the pitch-black frenzy of action, but as I make my dash to safety the rushing white waves bury him as he struggles to kick his legs free of his sleeping bag. The pressure of snow smashes the tent and wraps his body, pinning his struggling limbs in an irresistible embrace. Then, like cement, the snow closes around Chuckâs head. His mouth and throat fills with suffocating white death.
For a brief moment the deadly flow diminishesâlike the trough between two big ocean waves. I make an instinctive grab for the ice screw. I vaguely remember fixing the screw into the blue ice face above my side of the tent during the prior afternoonâan eternity ago. Itâs a good thing. As my hand latches the frigid metal, a second, stronger wave swells, and I pull myself up with one arm, right hand locked in a death grip on the carabiner clipped to the ice screw. Having something to pull on makes the difference between treading the snowâs surface and being sucked under. My stocking feet gain the top of the moving mass as the tide slows almost to a halt. Then as fast as it all started, it stops. Billions of ice crystals pay obeisance to the laws of physics as they meet, interlock, and come to rest at the angle of repose. As for the others, theyâre gone, washed down the chasm towards the black and bottomless pit.
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The whole Nanda Devi affair was a fascinating story, one threatening to fade into history as its participants passed away. The CIAâs Himalayan operation comprised eight separate expeditions and must have cost tens of millions of dollars in helicopter support, supplies and logistics alone. The devices ran up a bill of millions. The climbersâpaid $1,000 per month (a decent living in those days, but for the climbers, sporadic work at best)ârepresented a Sixties mountaineering dream team and included Tom Frost, who to this day holds true to his oath of silence, Lute Jerstad, who suffered a heart attack and died in 1998 while trekking in Nepal, Jim McCarthy, who has retired to Jackson, Wyoming, and Dr. Robert Schaller, who is semi-retired.
Today, though âcrippled by arthritisâ and his sandy hair gone white, Schaller is still the tall, handsome, driven man of his espionage years. Before making his mark on the medical world as a pediatric surgeon, Schaller made history of another sort, if known only by a few people, with what was then the greatest alpine climbing feat accomplished by an American. A year after the device was lost and while helping search for the lost sensor in September 1966, he climbed alone to Nanda Deviâs summit from Camp IV at 23,750 feet. His journal and photographs, a historic record of those exploits, were confiscated by the CIA. Such secrecy not only denied Schaller his place in climbing history, but also did nothing to assuage the concerns of a wife whose husband had mysteriously disappeared for months on end over a four-year period. With three other CIA climbers, Schaller won an intelligence medal from the Agency. It was draped around his neckâthen locked away in a vault at CIA headquarters in Langley. Ultimately, he also lost his marriage, alienated his children and now finds himself, âdisappointed by a government I donât trust anymore.â
The cost runs deep for another Nanda Devi survivor, legendary climber, former American Alpine Club president and retired Manhattan trial attorney Jim McCarthy, whose short, stocky build matches a pugnacious verbal style. He said to me after a half-dozen scotches, âYeah, the device got avalanched and stuck in the glacier and God knows what effects that will have.â
In 1965, McCarthy, selected for his climbing skill, had been instructed in the use of explosives like C4, and trained by the Atomic Energy Commission to handle the plutonium. âIn the Sanctuary, I was the only guy who handled the plutonium, and Iâm the one who loaded the device and straddled the fucking thing. Let me tell you, the fuel rods were wildly warm.â McCarthy further says, âNo question, there was no shielding at all and I got a large dose of radiation.â
McCarthy blames the radiation for testicular cancer. âIn 1971, while climbing on Devilâs Tower,â McCarthy recalls, âI was changing my pants when I noticed one of my testicles is greatly engorged. We drove straight back to New York, found the very best doctor in the Metro area. Two minutes later, Iâm in the OR.â
McCarthy recovered, but notes, âI saw the Sherpas fighting over who got to carry [the SNAP],â adding, âThey had no idea of what it was. Theyâd put the thing in the middle of their tent and huddle around it. I guarantee none of them are alive now.â
McCarthy had been vehemently against abandoning the generator on the mountain. On the CIA Nanda Devi expedition of October 1965, of which he was a part, a storm forced the hand of Indian climber Captain M. S. Kohli. The CIA expedition and the SNAP were stalled by deepening snow on the flat shoulder of Camp IV at 23,750 feet. The high camp team consisted of an Indian climber and six Sherpas. As leader of the espionage field effort, Kohli radioed for a general retreat, one that entailed leaving the SNAP at the high camp. Says McCarthy, who was recovering from altitude sickness at basecamp, âWhen I realize that theyâre dumping the fucking generator and going down the mountain, Iâm like, âWhat the fuck are you doing? Have them bring it down! Are you crazy?â Iâm yelling at the top of my lungs.â According to McCarthy, the CIA case officer nearly had to pull him off Kohli. âHe says to me, McCarthy says, âYou are creating an international incident!ââ
âBut,â McCarthy adds, âI had a vision of absolute clarity. Weâre going to lose a SNAP generator, powered by plutonium, in the headwaters of the Ganges!â
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Plutonium is funny stuffâa metal unlike any youâve ever seen. Changing the shape of a plutonium mass can lead to an uncontrolled release of energyâthe same energy that holds matter together. Say you held a sphere of plutonium-239 the size of a coconut. It would feel warm âlike a live rabbitâ and chances are, youâd suffer no ill effects. But if you could magically compress the ball at an extremely high speed and pressure, you and your surroundings would vaporize in the sudden flash of intense heat, light and radiation. In rudimentary terms, this is a nuclear weapon.
The SNAP-19 plutonium is neither the nuke variety nor the clichĂ© glowing goo leaking from an oil drum. The SNAP material cannot âexplodeâ and its metallic state is resistant to dispersion. Only through dispersion as a fine dust will plutonium live up to the moniker, âthe most poisonous substance known to man.â
But the SNAPâs potential is frightening. In 1987, a scrap merchant in Goiania Brazil stole a cigarette lighter-sized amount of Cesium-137 (1,400 curies in terms of radioactivity) from a therapy machine. The blue powder contaminated 200 people. Four died, including a four-year-old girl who had to be buried in a lead coffin. Pavement and buildings needed to be decontaminated. Contaminated soil had to be carted away. The once vibrant Goiania suffered a 20 percent economic drop. Tourism dropped to zero.
The SNAPâ19C retains 23,500 curiesâ20 times that of Goiania. What would happen if it were discovered by an unsuspecting mountain villager? Most experts agree that it made its way to the bottom of the glacier. Could the plutonium be ground to powder that would contaminate the Ganges? Schaller says that the lost material poses âa miniscule threat,â because the plutonium amount was relatively small and the dilution factorâeven if the stuff gets into the Gangesâis so great. Most scientists agree with Schaller, though there are a prominent few who point out that this early in our involvement with the material, we cannot know what constitutes a hazard, or what scenario might unfold. While avoiding hysteria, consider another horrifying potential. Dr. Iggy Litaor of the Tel-Hai Academic College in Tel Aviv, Israel, says, âThe real threat of the material lost on Nanda Devi is the dirty bomb. Such a device could yield the entire Lower Manhattan uninhabitable, creating a worse economic disaster than the Great Depression.â
In the post 9-11 world the SNAP plutonium is an ultimate terror weapon. Operatives for Osama bin Laden have tried to buy enriched South African uranium on the black market. In 2001, American-led forces discovered documents in Afghanistan detailing the building and deployment of a dirty bomb. Al Qaeda recently paid Jose Padilla $10,000 to carry out a dirty bomb attackâhe was arrested. In 2002, David Albright, president of the Institute for Science and International Security says, âThere is a 10 to 40 percent chance that terrorists will conduct a successful attack with a crude âdirty bombâ in the next five to 10 years.â
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