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After the ears I move onto the stop. The stop is the area in between the eyes and should be cleaned out pretty well. I usually use a 30 blade backwards to give it a deeper, cleaner appearance. I use a reverse “v” shape to remove hair from the stop.

Tyler (left) has a shallow stop and I can make it appear much deeper by using a tight blade and cleaning out as much hair as possible. Austin ( right) 

has a nice deep stop that requires no extra chiseling.

I still go tight to help show off the eyes. Also, removing the hair from the top will make the hair stay out of the dog’s eyes longer.

Then I move onto the cheeks and muzzle and using a ten or fifteen blade (depending on the dog’s skin sensitivity and color) I go backwards from the ear to the muzzle line just behind the lip line. On dogs with a very full muzzle you can go the rest of the way down the muzzle with the same blade, but if the dog is snipey (thin) or just needs more appearance of bone then you can use a 7F or thinning shears to make it look more plush and full. If you look again to the photos of Tyler and Austin, Tyler is a bit less full in the muzzle area and he is done with thinners on the muzzle, whereas I am able to take a ten blade backwards on Austin’s face and get a nice plush face.

I take a 30 blade to the lip if the dogs face is longer than it should be and to the under jaw as well to tighten that area up and leave the rest more plush. Make sure when clipping the jaw line you pull the lip back and get the hair out from the flews. This will make the face appear more clean and will help keep the mouth area cleaner as well when the dog eats or drinks.

Follow the lines on the drawing to get your face lines in the right place. If you are changing blades between the different parts of the face, use the lines as a guide and then blend using thinning shears to make it smooth.

The lines on the face are as follows:

The top line is from the ear edge to the inner eye corner. Then the muzzle is angled from the inner eye corner to the outer lip corner. Under the jaw you come forward from the neck line towards the lip. If you want to depth you can go with a longer blade, but I usually use a ten blade there and build my “bone” with the muzzle. Remember to stretch the lip line to avoid nicking and to remove the hair in the flew.    

Now we will go on to the rest of the head.

Many pet owners and pet groomers think that if they leave hair on the top of the head like a show cocker would have, that the hair will fall forward and cause the hair to be in the eyes really soon after grooming, but the truth is a properly done crown leaves the rounded appearance called for in the standard but DOES NOT fall forward over the eyes. Annie (buff, left) and Cheslea (parti, right) show you that the crown can be shorter, layered and still show a nice rounded appearance without hair falling forward into the eyes.

For show the head should be done in a manner that is slightly different from the pet world. The top of the head is done with thinners to help it maintain height and shape and to blend better into the crown. On pets, we tend to use a blade on the back skull making it harder to blend well into the neckline and the crown, but it can be done.

The line behind the crown should be a line which is roughly from ear to ear. I tend to do a more rounded line when clipping or thinning to make the midpoint of the crown back further than the rest of the crown. I usually use a 7F backwards or a 9 with the grain on my back skulls.

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