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The line behind the crown should be a line which is roughly from ear to ear. I tend to do a more rounded line when clipping or thinning to make the midpoint of the crown back further than the rest of the crown. I usually use a 7F backwards or a 9 with the grain on my back skulls.

You can see by looking at Abbey’s head that the line starts at the front corner of each ear and comes across in a slight arch. If you take that lone straight across it will look less natural and the goal of this is to enhance the dogs appearance, not make it look carved or harsh or in the least way unnatural.

There are shortcuts you can use to make a pet crown faster and easier in the salon. Here is Tess and how I do her head.

Take a ten blade and take off the hair right over the eyes, across the eyebrow ridge. This will open up the eyes and give the head a tad more height. It also helps you begin the crown with the eyes open, so you know where you need to work on the top of the skull.

The next step is to take a snap on comb and take some of the length off, while still maintaining the shape of the head which can be tricky. The hair will be layered when you are finished and then you only need to touch it up with thinning shears.

Her tan markings make it really easy to see the brow line I was referring to above. You can see now that the hair will not fall into her eyes and she has nice, defined eyes.

I am using a Laube Speed Feed trimmer on her face and the snap on comb is part of that clipper set. Notice I am going both forward and backwards, with and against, the lay of the hair. The backwards motion will layer the hair and the clipping with the lay will give you more control over length.

THIS TECHNIQUE IS RECCOMENDED FOR PETS ONLY! Show dogs should be done with thinning shears, not done with a clipper.

After the bulk of the shaping and hair removal is done, you need to finish the crown off with thinning shears. If you pull the shear backwards toward the occiput as you scissor it will help the hair lay down better. You can also take the thinner from the back and under the hair to remove bulk if needed.

I take a stripping knife and card the top of the crown after I am through to assist it in laying flat without losing hair. It will pull out the softer hair from underneath and leave the harder hair on top, laying nicely.

Use thinners to blend the Crown into the back skull.

By pulling the shears backwards as you thin it will make the hair layer easier and more naturally.

There are other ways to do crowns and not one way is better than the other. It’s all in what works and the type of hair the dog has. The dog below, Max, has a different hair and head type than Tess has. She is from a show line and he is from a pet line.His hair is thinner and straighter than hers and that poses some interesting problems on its own. We begin with the clipping of the back skull and then comb the hair forward over his eyes, trim it with curved shears like you are setting a visor on a shih-tzu then blend using thinning shears to make it lay the way we want it to.