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Notice the lines on his ears. The straight lines denote thirds of the ear and the slight V at the bottom of the second line shows the shape his ears were clippered into. NOTICE that the lip line is right in line with the outermost part of that second line. That is where your clipper line should be on most cocker spaniels.
The basic lines are easy even though some dispute them. ONE THIRD of the length of the entire ear should be shaved, but the line should not extend below the lip line.
Many people clipper a straight line, but I prefer a V shape clipped into the ear. It will give a longer appearance to the ear and will allow you to make an improper ear set appear more normal. It works on ears that are too short naturally or a head that is lacking in top skull as well. To do this you hold the ear in your hand and beginning in the middle of the ear, go towards the outside of the ear clipping against the grain, towards the skull. It doesn’t have to be a deep V, it can be shallow, just make it fit the dog’s conformation.
I almost always use a 40 blade on the inside of the ear to remove hair and keep the ear healthy. You can use a ten blade backwards if you like, but there is a flap of skin on the ear that will catch and you can cut a dog if you aren’t careful. I prefer to use a 30 or 40 and go with the grain, floating off the edge of the ear and then following up with shears along the edge to give a nice tight appearance. I prefer to trim the ends of my ears when I am finished with the dog, but to do it, you use thinning shears and trim any rough edges and straggly ends to make the ear appear neater and keep the length under control.
After the ears I move onto the stop. The stop is the area in between the eyes and should be cleaned out pretty well. I usually use a 30 blade backwards to give it a deeper, cleaner appearance. I use a reverse “v” shape to remove hair from the stop.
Tyler (left) has a shallow stop and I can make it appear much deeper by using a tight blade and cleaning out as much hair as possible. Austin ( right)
has a nice deep stop that requires no extra chiseling.
I still go tight to help show off the eyes. Also, removing the hair from the top will make the hair stay out of the dog’s eyes longer.
Then I move onto the cheeks and muzzle and using a ten or fifteen blade (depending on the dog’s skin sensitivity and color) I go backwards from the ear to the muzzle line just behind the lip line. On dogs with a very full muzzle you can go the rest of the way down the muzzle with the same blade, but if the dog is snipey (thin) or just needs more appearance of bone then you can use a 7F or thinning shears to make it look more plush and full. If you look again to the photos of Tyler and Austin, Tyler is a bit less full in the muzzle area and he is done with thinners on the muzzle, whereas I am able to take a ten blade backwards on Austin’s face and get a nice plush face.
I take a 30 blade to the lip if the dogs face is longer than it should be and to the under jaw as well to tighten that area up and leave the rest more plush. Make sure when clipping the jaw line you pull the lip back and get the hair out from the flews. This will make the face appear more clean and will help keep the mouth area cleaner as well when the dog eats or drinks.
Follow the lines on the drawing to get your face lines in the right place. If you are changing blades between the different parts of the face, use the lines as a guide and then blend using thinning shears to make it smooth.
The lines on the face are as follows:
The top line is from the ear edge to the inner eye corner. Then the muzzle is angled from the inner eye corner to the outer lip corner. Under the jaw you come forward from the neck line towards the lip. If you want to depth you can go with a longer blade, but I usually use a ten blade there and build my “bone” with the muzzle. Remember to stretch the lip line to avoid nicking and to remove the hair in the flew.
Now we will go on to the rest of the head.
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