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Cunt Meetingstrippeddevi En People Gina Shiels 644701024 Meeting Stripped Devi NANDA DEVI JUGGERNAUT | Himalayanm Club

Cunt Meetingstrippeddevi En People Gina Shiels 644701024 Meeting Stripped Devi

The humility and veneration of the first climbers was perhaps missing with later visitors to the Sanctuary. The inner sanctums were opened for unrestricted flow of visitors in 1974. Within 8 years there was so much pollution, cutting of trees and damage that the Sanctuary had to be totally closed now till 2002. (During these years five expeditions visited the Sanctuary, two of them from the defence forces, which climbed the main peak^[1]). It was therefore imperative that the effect of this closure should be observed, especially as the new state of Uttaranchal was interested in knowing the state of the Sanctuary.

The Indian Mountaineering Foundation decided to send a multi- disciplinary expedition to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary in May-June 2001. Finally, our expedition consisted of 3 trekkers and mountaineers and 4 scientists to trek into the inner Sanctuary. We were asked to study specifically the following points:

• Whether any further destruction have taken place since closure of the Sanctuary
• Whether the total closure has been beneficial to the growth of natural resources
• Whether the closure has been total or there have been several encroachments or
• Whether the Sanctuary’s fragile environment is now strong enough to allow some trekking and climbing activity.

Based on the report of our team, a ‘Management Plan’ could be formulated by the IMF and the Uttaranchal Government.

We travelled by train with Gurdial Singh who was one of the earliest climbers to have visited the Sanctuary. He was forthright in his advice and finally ended with a little twinkle in his eyes; ‘I envy you all. Have fun and try to save Goddess from further destruction.’

The day we reached Joshimath, one of the screws in my specs was loose and I could not find any optical shop to fix it. Finally I located a small shop selling watches with a friendly looking owner at the desk chewing paan (beetle-nut). I showed him the problem. Listening to a radio, he looked around for a tool and repaired it in no time. I offered to pay for the services. He simply extended his hand and murmured. ‘just shake hands’. I was back in the friendly land of Garhwal!

Diwan Singh Butola

We travelled to Lata village where we had discussions with local Pradhan (village headman) who bargained for a better rate for porters. While negotiations were on I visited the village and looked for the legendary Diwan Singh Butola.

Diwan Singh has a place in the history of exploration of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. Today he is possibly one of the few persons alive who were with the first team of Shipton and Tilman in 1934 which explored the route to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. He may be old, 95 years of age, but was certainly alert and energetic.

With a sense of humour, he narrated several experiences. He had carried load for the ‘two Angrez’ (as he called Shipton and Tilman team) and stayed at various camps en route when Shipton and Tilman explored routes. He reached Sarso Patal and returned with them when the monsoon arrived.

When they returned to the Sanctuary after the rains, they did not take any locals with them, as the plan was to descend across the Sunderdhunga chal to the south. Amongst his companions with the 1934 team Diwan Singh remembers Ang Tharkey and his ponytail well. For his efforts, in 1934 he was given a Re.1 Victoria Silver coin and a ‘metered’ Pressure Cooker. He sold both these for Rs. 500 and used the money for his own marriage, he added with a laugh.

He continued going with other teams later to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary and other areas. He was with the French team (1951), which attempted to traverse the two peaks of Nanda Devi. The French killed too many bharals and birds en route to the base camp, which according to Diwan Singh was chhejan, a bad omen. The two summiteers perished on the mountains. He remembers the various American expeditions (in mid-sixties) too. ‘Many Americans came looking for gold in the Sanctuary. They went in with huge boxes.’^[2] (He had carried one of the boxes). He felt that the death of Nanda Devi Unsoeld on the Nanda Devi peak was ordained. The goddess was displeased.

I asked him whether he required any medicine. With a laugh he said, ‘can you give any water to dry wood? At this age no medicine will work on me’.

‘Do you require anything, have any wish? I asked.

‘Only thing remains is death, dying in the warmth of the great Himalaya where I have lived my whole life’. He had never been beyond Chamoli in the hills and had not seen the plains. The Himalaya and goddess Nanda Devi had given him everything he needed.

The Problems

The negotiations for rates were over but as the expedition was ready to move, awaiting porters, the Pradhan of Lata village came with a ‘resolution’ on paper and a printed receipt book. He wanted us to obtain a ‘permit’ from him and wanted us to pay Rs. 5/- per day per person as fee to enter the Sanctuary. We refused to do so as it would set a wrong precedent for all other villages to follow and only the Uttaranchal Government or its representatives are authorised to issue any permit and collect money. After long arguments, the porters went on strike and refused to carry luggage for the expedition. This seems to be a new and threatening development in the Himalaya. The villagers were not wrong in their demands too for they were promised a lot when the Sanctuary was closed first, but nothing was done. They feared that when the Sanctuary opens to trekkers and climbers again the main benefits would go to outsiders and they would be left in lurch again.

I had a job to do so I spread the word with other porters, some of whom I knew from my previous two visits, about the large amount of cash I was carrying for them to earn as porterage on the current expedition and I threatened to return home with the goodies. Temptation was name of the game and the ‘principles’ could not last against such a large one. After few hours, Pradhan and porters returned, lured by the money they were to earn.^[3]

Chhino – Jhapto

A movement in the name of ‘Chhino – Jhapto’ literally meaning, ‘Grab and Take Away’ was started in July-August 1998 by the villagers of Lata. This was a protest against the closer of the Sanctuary since 1982. The idea was to take over the grazing land and forcibly enter the reserved forest for grazing/cultivation and collection of medicinal herbs. According to them when the Sanctuary was closed in 1982, the villagers were promised alternative grazing rights in the forest division of Badrinath section. Unfortunately, even after almost 20 years their plight was not attended to.

During the protest, many villagers gathered at the Lata village and climbed up to Lata kharak, Dharashi and crossed into the core area of the

Sanctuary at Dibrugheta. Their plan was to camp in the forest reserve for months in a relay and break rules of the National Park. Later while trekking in to the area we could read the slogans written by them on the rock walls and trees. The Government in response had sent the District Magistrate for negotiations. When these failed, a contingent of Police Armed Constabulary (PAC) was sent but the villagers could not be stopped. However, after about a month, the protest fizzled out and villagers returned back from the prohibited area.^[4]

The Trail

With the problems now behind us we started on the famous trail to the inner Sanctuary of the Nanda Devi. We climbed from the roadhead to Lata village (2 km) on a well-cemented track. The famous Nanda Devi temple was situated above the village. After offering prayers, we followed a broad foot track to Belta Kharak and next day, to Lata Kharak. The trail zigzags up the steep slopes through beautiful forest. On top of the ridge, we came across a forest hut that had been built in 1995.

The footpath ends at Doni Dhar. A narrow trail led us to the Dharanshi pass, a name given by Shipton and Tilman. The map calls it Barf kina dhar (ridge of snow). Across the pass, one has to descend and traverse across the Satkulas (seven nalas). From the last nala one can descend to the lower Dharanshi camping ground. However, the present route climbs steeply up the last nala and traverses for 3 km to a higher plateau called Rani khola. Our third day’s camp was established on this ground. Ahead, we had to cross the second famous pass, Malatoni^[5] (garland ridge). We reached the pass, which is under the Malatoni peak, after traversing a distance of 2 km. This was what the explorers had named ‘the Curtain Ridge’. We saw Nanda Devi briefly from here. The trail descended more than 1000 m to an open green ground of Dibrugheta, named after god ‘Dibru’.

By this time we had established camaraderie with the porters who were a friendly lot. I chatted with Dinesh, a local lad who was carrying a heavy load.

‘I have appeared for my final school exams and am awaiting results. I thought I must see the Sanctuary about which elders have told me many stories’.

Ultimately, he wanted to be employed in the plains and undertake a government service. Most of the younger lot was educated and were carrying loads out of curiosity. When we paid wages, unlike in the past, all of them could sign their names, some of them in English. If involved in environment protection of the Sanctuary, this educated generation can surely bring a new life to the area. They appreciated the need for protection but pleaded helplessness to do anything in face of stronger forces.

From Dibrugheta, a steep climb through forest led to an open ground followed by a delicate traverse for 3 km. At the end of it, we descended a broad nala to the Rishi ganga river. There was no bridge so we constructed one with three aluminium ladders. Across the river we continued, after a camp at Deodi, on the trail with a steep climb through forest and an easy traverse of about 3 km to Shikari Udiar. This is a large cave where Shikaris (hunters) used to stay. ‘Used to stay’ are perhaps wrong words to use as we could observe that the trail and caves were well used in recent times. There were signs of poaching, cutting of trees and the area was far from ‘closed’ for so many years. Our porters also had many stories to tell.

The trail descended steeply to the Trisul nala, which we crossed by a natural rock bridge. Soon we were at Ramani, at the foot of the historic Rishi gorge. This gorge was the key to the exploration of the route to the inner sanctuary of Nanda Devi and it took many years for this riddle to be solved by early explorers. ^[6]

The Rishi Gorge

The trail climbed steeply, first through rhododendron bushes and then on rocky terrain. From some points, there were good views of the main peak. As the trail turned after a long traverse, suddenly we were at the foot of ‘The Slab’. This is a slope of downward sloping rocks where we had to fix ropes. After negotiating it carefully we were at the traditional camping site of Bhujgara midway through the gorge.

The trail was now what locals called the ‘Tel-mel bat’ (crooked trail). This ended in a pinnacle like feature, which was highly exposed. After a steep climb with fixed ropes, we were again at another famous point, ‘Vaikunth Sidi’ (Staircase to Heaven) which was dangerous and exposed. No wonder it is so named, for if you climb this you reach the heaven of Nanda Devi, if you fall you reach heaven anyway! Climbing the huge slopes over rocks and juniper we finally reached the top of the ridge; ‘The Pisgah’ (The Promised Land) and we were inside the famed Sanctuary. The campsite, Patalkhan (mine of slabs) was nearby.

In the Sanctuary